I Sent My Climbing Proj

I did it! I sent my climbing project the next time I went out to try it!

The previous time I tried it I worked out my beta for what I called the second half, which is the part from a good crack foot jam, a good left hand hold, and a crimpy right undercling hold up. I hadn't linked from the starting position to the start of the second half, which is what I focused on the session that I sent it.

The beta that I ended up going with involved first matching a really large slopey undercling (which rock-burned the inside of my wrist), then transitioning that into a solid kneebar on that undercling. Next, I wodged my shoulder in with the knee, so that I could reach a far left juggy gaston without having to use any ab strength. Then, I reached up for the crimpy but good undercling at my forehead and held the swing from cutting the kneebar, which put me in the starting position for the second half which I worked out the previous session!

This final beta was not intuitive to me. I haven't done much kneebarring or shoulder wadging before, so it took me a while to figure out how to use the geometry of my body and the rock instead of just trying to rely on pure bicep power to hold me on the sloper-undercling. Once I figured out the kneebar I tried to figure out how to move out of that position to the left. I knew I had an intermediate sidepull next to the gaston that I was aiming for with my left hand, but I didn't seem to have the strength or beta to hold the right side of my body on the wall while I reached out left. Part of the problem was that a lot of my weight was in the kneebar, and I ended up twisting out of it in order to reach left. Therefore, on the attempt that ended up in the send, I tried litterally leaning into the kneebar, and getting my shoulder in the rock as well, this meant that I could move off of the left intermediate sidepull and into the left gaston without much trouble, and once I did that move, I kept climbing.

I didn't practice the top-out when I was practicing the second half, so I fumbled that a little bit with some foot slips, but I held on and made it up. After watching the video I wanted to go back and clean it up a little bit, but I haven't been back there to boulder so it's low priority.