Trad Climbing & Multipitch Rescue Lessons

I took a two day crash-course on trad climbing and multipitch rescue with local guide Zack Wentz in August. I learned a lot, and have been letting it sink in and using a little of that knowledge on my subsequent trips. I still have a lot to learn, but here's my collection of notes about what I learned, though I'd highly recommend in-person instruction especially from a guide as education-focused as Zack!

Trad Refesher (Day 1)

Since I hadn't trad climbed in 4 years, we started off talking a lot about what makes placements good, and practicing them and grading them on the popular 5-point scale. The main topics for placements were to consider: the rock quality and geology (I learned about placing next to blocks / flakes), the direction of pull from a fall and rope drag, and the surface contact of the piece of pro and the rock. We also talked about modern trad gear, and how good cams have gotten, how dual-axle Black Diamond cams can be placed in passive mode.

Next we talked about anchors, and how using the 5 point placement grading system we can evaluate anchors, where on a 5th class climb we might want an anchor with at least 12 total points. We practiced some anchor building, and I tried linking cams in a crack with their own slings, and a girth hitch master point for the first time.

We also briefly mentioned the fixed point lead belay, which I haven't yet started using but should start incorporating into my climbing. This includes upward pull piece(s) on the anchor and wearing gloves.

Then we did some practice leads with gear placement evaluation, and some practice falls on trad gear. I took my first ever falls on trad gear! Finally we finished up for the day with a lead on a 5.9 offwidth(ish) crack, which is not a style I've done before. I took a fall, did some hand stacks, and eventually made it up with a big effort! We defrieded and Zach gave me feedback that it was good that I was climbing from stance to stance and placing gear in stances, not mid-crux.

Multipitch Rescue (Day 2):

The next day we did an overview of multipitch rescue skills, which Zach had sent me some videos to watch and knots to practice beforehand. The main topic was how to get off the climb. The options are to go down (preferred), or up. These notes are very brief, since I feel that I still have so much to learn and practice with this rescue stuff.

General:

• Munter-Mule-Overhand using cordelette to transfer loads.
• The Edelrid Giga-Jul is good all-in-one tool, but only ok at everything, not great at anything. Different carabiners & ropes make a big difference.

Going down:

• Tandem Rappelling & Counter balanced rappelling.
• Lowering: Load-Strand-Defeating (dangerous with Kong GiGi plate, good with tube), release device with foot-pedal. Passing knots.

Going up:

• Ascending the rope
• Rope-soloing w/ Wild Country Revo or clove hitch. Upward pull anchor.
• Hauling from the top. 3:1 at least if unconscious, drop-c if can help pull. Convert to 5:1, 6:1.